Ice Climbing Falls Between WI3 East Rosebud Canyon, Beartooth Mountains, MT

Location: East Rosebud Canyon, Beartooth Mountains

Route: 30 meters, WI3

Starting from Columbus, Montana, head south on Highway 78 towards Absorkee and then further south to Roscoe (20 miles NW of Red Lodge). *Remember to stop at the Grizzly Bar in Roscoe post climb for a burger and beers. Continue on the East Rosebud rd through Roscoe until arriving at a bridge to the left. Take this bridge across East Rosebud Creek and then take the first right over a cattle guard and further into the canyon. This road will pass many small cabins and a small body of water until reaching the forest service boundary. Once entering the forest service canyon, cross the first bridge and continue driving past both Lower and Upper Sand Dunes picnic areas. Once you reach the second bridge, take the immediate pull out to the right and park in this lot. Prior to reaching the second bridge, you can see Falls Between to the right and up the talus slope at the mouth of the gully. 

The approach is difficult. From the parking lot, follow the old utility road to the top of a small hill before heading left up the talus slope to the mouth of the gully. Breaking trail can be interesting depending on the amount of snowpack. Our hike was met with slippery scree and bad footing. After about a 30 minute approach, reach the mouth of the gully and gain visibility of the ice flow. The climb looks much bigger once underneath it! 

Falls Between is a WI 3 with harder WI 4 and mixed opportunities on its right side. The ice is delicate as the gully rarely sees the sun and maintains a constant wind gust. We climbed the route with a 70 meter rope and 7 screws until reaching the larger tree at the top. There are anchors around rocks immediately at the top of the route, but we did not opt to use them as the snow cover made it hard to check their durability. The tree anchor can also be difficult to reach as it sits a top a rock face with zero protection. 

Falls Between is an enjoyable climb. I would recommend climbing this and Hells Roaring in the same day. 

- Sam